Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant dialogue from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
